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Goodbye Tamo

Last post 01-14-2008, 4:33 PM by rockmonkey. 77 replies.
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  •  01-07-2008, 8:41 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

     i'd just as soon as memorize the spot on the rock.  If people clean them off, thats cool, but i dont personally like them.  it does take a little less thought to make a move with a tick though and i get why people do it. not my bag though.
  •  01-07-2008, 9:36 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    sidepull wrote:
    this thread has become a combination of the bizarre and innane. can we go back to arguing about something worthwhile? for instance, I contend that rookie-stripes on a boulder problem reduce the grade by 1.5 points on the v-scale (.5 points on the c-scale, and a letter on the french scale) - thoughts?


    fixed

    Cause you'll never know till you've got the bone.
  •  01-08-2008, 8:53 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    thanks - I knew I should have spell-checked that.
  •  01-08-2008, 9:21 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Tick marks can be wiped off (yet they rarely are). I do not neccessarily agree with giving it an easier grade because of ticks, but I do agree that the tactic does expediate the process.  Gyms use tape to mark the holds, is that considered when the route is graded? No. 

    Gotta pick your battles I guess.  I can accept ticks way before comfortizing/chipping.

  •  01-08-2008, 12:01 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Mike - it wasn't a real concern, sorry if the sarcasm wasn't heavy enough. But, to answer your question, I subtract .5 points from every problem that you have taped at ClimbMax on my 8a scorecard!
  •  01-08-2008, 12:12 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    sidepull wrote:
    this thread has become a combination of the bizarre and innane. can we go back to arguing about something worthwhile? for instance, I contend that ticks on a boulder problem reduce the grade by 1.5 points on the v-scale (.5 points on the c-scale, and a letter on the french scale) - thoughts?

    I prefer neon-pink tape. Its so much easier to see!

  •  01-08-2008, 12:55 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    throw some of that on aragorn and you're at the top no sweat.
  •  01-09-2008, 9:38 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    climbo_bg wrote:
     

    Very good job, ROCKMONKEY!!!

    Another guy concerned with putting his name on the crag, probably with a line that no one will try or even destroying the line with a “great drilling”

    Javier concerned on the spot because uneducated people are destroying routes and lines - forever!

    Why people are too concerned with FA’s and “Drilling Routes” than climbing???

     

    Tonight at azr I was retained as climbo_bg's official interpreter.   

     

    This message should go something like this (his words not mine)

     

    In terms of route setting one of the worst areas in terms of quality and safety I have ever climbed at was The Homestead.   I hope the same thing doesn't happen at these new limestone areas.  People just want to drill holes and not put up quality routes that have been decently cleaned and without 50 foot groundfall potential.  If you are going to put up a route at the very least clean the loose blocks that are as big as my head off of it before you put up the next problem 36cm down the wall.  Why are these people not climbing many different areas to get a feel for what is good?  Do the developers know proper bolt placement? 

     

     

  •  01-09-2008, 11:02 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Minko, your askin for it, you really are.

    Lets talk about Minko's reputation for chipping alternate sequences off problems at Groom Creek. 

    Lets talk about Minko's euro standards you so obvioulsy learned from vandals in Font.

    And next time you go to Homestead I'll have a special surprise waiting for you, well see if any of these so called "dangerous" rocks might find a way to fall.  Yeah so maybe you should stick to chipping at groom and start saving for that plane ticket back to the trash dump you came from instead of sticking your filthy nose into business you deserve no part of.

    There's a reason I never returned your plea's for tours of the Homestead, your a tool who climbs for all the wrong reasons.  I see it in your climbing, I see it in your whining, and now its verified once again by your idiotic statements on this site. You better hope your a US Citizen cause if I ever have the chance to have you booted from this country you can bet I will take it.  Your always gonna be a loser cause you don't have vision and your standards are choss.

    Minko, you've made me your enemy with your loose lipped statements, I hope that's what you wanted cause I plan to have a lot ot fun showing you and everybody else how much I know about you now.

    So folks, you got even more dirt on Minko but don't want to be the one to expose him?  Give me a call or a PM and I'll make sure people hear what really happens when Minko goes to the rocks.


    Cause you'll never know till you've got the bone.
  •  01-09-2008, 11:30 PM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Here we go....

  •  01-10-2008, 7:24 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Jbone, why all the high schoolish threats and name calling to climbo_bg?   He expressed an opinion about an area you developed and all you do is attack and threaten him? 

     I would have thought the response from a mature veteran AZ rock climber as yourself  trying to set an example for the next generation would have been - "We put a lot of thought, time and effort into making homestead the best area it could be.  I'm not sure what routes climbo_bg got on, but I would love to give him a tour and if a few things need some cleaning hopefully he will volunteer to help." 

    As for the chipping at groom, climbo_bg,  wtf?!?  If true, I hope you have realized this is totally unacceptable and will refrain from doing so again.  A reputation once gained, is a hard thing to lose. 

         

  •  01-10-2008, 8:04 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    OneArmCrank wrote:
    Here we go....

    AHAHAHA! I would have used a photo of Jesse "The Body" Ventura circa "Predator" unloading with a handhelf gatling gun, but, the flamethrower will suffice.

  •  01-10-2008, 8:11 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    People thought I chipped that hold at Groom. This was probably due to me talking s%it to people using the alternate beta on the choss hold, to dumb the problem down a few grades.

    I don't know who chipped it-- and personally, I don't care. The hold was sharp choss that would have broken eventually. The problem is honestly, probably better without it.

    FAAKKING GYPSIES!!!!!!!!!

    *Disclaimer* This is NOT me condoning chipping-- it is merely a personal opinion about the boulder problem.

     

  •  01-10-2008, 8:41 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    jlane wrote:
    climbo_bg wrote:
     

    Very good job, ROCKMONKEY!!!

    Another guy concerned with putting his name on the crag, probably with a line that no one will try or even destroying the line with a “great drilling”

    Javier concerned on the spot because uneducated people are destroying routes and lines - forever!

    Why people are too concerned with FA’s and “Drilling Routes” than climbing???

     

    Tonight at azr I was retained as climbo_bg's official interpreter.   

     

    This message should go something like this (his words not mine)

     

    In terms of route setting one of the worst areas in terms of quality and safety I have ever climbed at was The Homestead.   I hope the same thing doesn't happen at these new limestone areas.  People just want to drill holes and not put up quality routes that have been decently cleaned and without 50 foot groundfall potential.  If you are going to put up a route at the very least clean the loose blocks that are as big as my head off of it before you put up the next problem 36cm down the wall.  Why are these people not climbing many different areas to get a feel for what is good?  Do the developers know proper bolt placement? 

     

     

    Tell Minko (if neccessary) that he should spend more time seeking and less time talking.  Nobody had to give me a tour to fing the good stuff in the Homnestead or any other crag in the region I was able to find them on my own.  There are many people (including JBone) who have put in many hours and money to find and develop many areas in the Homestead and the surrounding cliffs.  Hundreds of routes that are quality.

    To generalize that people just want to drill holes and not put up quality routes is not even close to accurate, it is in fact false.  Especially when coming from someone so removed from the actual scene of climbers who are doing the drilling and putting up the routes.  He obviously does not know what he is saying.  If he wants to criticize a route or routes so be it, but why the attacks on everybody?

    I can say, because I have been to most areas in the Homestead that the cliff Minko was on (I am assuming it was Bonetown, please correctly if I am wrong) is the least quality crag in the Homestead.  It was really only developed because it is close and it is steep.  There are a couple of quality routes there, but it is really just a cliff close to the car. 

    I would recomemend to anybody going to any crag out there to where a helmet, there are freezes that loosen blocks from season to season, climber beware.

     

     

  •  01-10-2008, 10:24 AM

    Re: Goodbye Tamo

    Hey Minko...

    We are going to be bolting some new limestone pretty soon.
    Are you interested in helping?
    Let me know.

    I will show you the cliffs I took a look at last week. I think there could be some pretty hard lines for you.
    1 hour to 5.13s will be nice!

    I am heading out there Friday if you are interested.

     

     



     

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